A conventional loan is the most common type of mortgage in the country, and for a lot of buyers in Utah and Idaho it’s the best value available. It isn’t backed by a government agency like FHA, VA, or USDA. Instead, most conventional loans follow guidelines set by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, which is why you’ll also hear them called “conforming” loans.
I’m Caleb Adams, a licensed mortgage broker based in North Logan, Utah. I help buyers and homeowners across Utah and Idaho (and Texas) compare conventional loans from many wholesale lenders. Conventional guidelines are standardized, but pricing is not. Two lenders can offer the same loan with noticeably different costs, and shopping that for you is a big part of what I do. I work directly with every client and look at your full picture, not just one number.
Who a conventional loan fits
- Buyers with solid credit. Conventional pricing rewards higher credit scores more than FHA does.
- Buyers putting 5% or more down, and some first-time or lower-income buyers putting as little as 3% down.
- Buyers who want mortgage insurance that goes away. Conventional PMI can be removed once you reach enough equity, unlike most FHA mortgage insurance.
- Second home and investment buyers. Conventional loans can be used for primary residences, second homes, and investment properties.
- Homeowners refinancing, either to change their rate and term or to take cash out.
Who it may not fit
- Buyers with lower credit scores. Below the mid 600s, FHA often comes out ahead on payment.
- Buyers with high debt compared to income. FHA can be more flexible on debt-to-income ratios.
- Veterans and service members, who should compare a VA loan, which usually needs no down payment and no monthly mortgage insurance.
- Buyers above the conforming limit, who would need a jumbo loan instead.
- Self-employed borrowers whose tax returns show low income. A self-employed loan may be a better fit.
Conventional loan requirements
Every lender adds its own rules on top of Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac guidelines, but here’s the general picture.
- Credit score. Most conventional loans require a minimum score around 620. Higher scores usually mean better pricing and cheaper mortgage insurance.
- Down payment. Conventional loans can go as low as 3% down for qualified buyers, with 5% and up being common. Putting 20% down removes the need for mortgage insurance.
- Debt-to-income ratio. Lenders compare your monthly debts, including the new house payment, to your gross monthly income. The limit depends on your credit, down payment, and the automated underwriting result.
- Income and employment. Typically two years of stable history, documented with pay stubs, W-2s, and sometimes tax returns.
- Property. Single-family homes, condos, townhomes, and 2 to 4 unit properties can all qualify.
- Loan amount. Must fall within the conforming loan limit for your county.
2026 conforming loan limits for Utah and Idaho
The Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA) sets the maximum loan size Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac will buy. For 2026, the baseline limits for most of the country are:
- 1 unit: $832,750
- 2 units: $1,066,250
- 3 units: $1,288,800
- 4 units: $1,601,750
The baseline applies to most counties in Utah and Idaho, including Bannock and Bonneville counties in Idaho. In Idaho, Teton County is a high-cost area with a 2026 one-unit limit of $1,249,125, which is the national ceiling. A few Utah counties, including resort areas like Summit and Wasatch, also have limits above the baseline. If you’re buying in one of those areas, I’ll confirm the exact limit for your county before we lock anything in. Loan amounts above your county limit fall into jumbo territory, which has its own guidelines.
PMI basics
If you put less than 20% down on a conventional loan, you’ll usually pay private mortgage insurance, or PMI. It protects the lender, not you, but it’s what makes a low down payment possible. What you pay depends mostly on your credit score and how much you put down.
The good news is that conventional PMI doesn’t last forever. Under federal rules, you can ask your servicer to cancel it once your balance reaches 80% of your home’s original value, as long as you’re current on payments and meet the other conditions. It automatically drops off when your balance is scheduled to reach 78% of the original value. Some borrowers also get it removed earlier based on a new appraisal after their home has gone up in value, depending on the servicer’s rules.
There are other ways to handle mortgage insurance too, like lender-paid PMI built into the rate or a single upfront premium. I’ll show you the options side by side.
3% down: HomeReady and Home Possible
Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac both offer programs that allow 3% down for qualified buyers:
- Fannie Mae HomeReady. Allows 3% down on a primary residence. Your qualifying income can’t be more than 80% of the area median income for the property’s location. You don’t have to be a first-time buyer, but if all buyers on the loan are first-time buyers, homeownership education is required. Gifts and grants can be used toward the down payment.
- Freddie Mac Home Possible. Allows 3% down with qualifying income capped at 80% of the area median income. It can be used on 1 to 4 unit properties, condos, and PUDs, and it has reduced mortgage insurance coverage requirements at higher loan-to-value ratios.
There’s also a standard conventional 3% down option for first-time buyers without the income cap. Which one wins depends on your income, credit, and the property, and it’s something I’ll run for you.
How the process works
- Quick call. We talk through your goals, timeline, income, and savings.
- Credit and document review. I pull credit and review your income and assets to see where you stand.
- Compare options. I compare conventional against FHA, VA, or USDA if they apply, and shop pricing across wholesale lenders.
- Pre-approval. You get a pre-approval letter that holds up when you make an offer.
- Underwriting to closing. Once you’re under contract, I handle the appraisal, underwriting conditions, and closing, and keep you and your agent in the loop.
What a conventional loan costs
Your costs include your interest rate, any PMI, and closing costs such as lender fees, appraisal, title, and escrow. Conventional pricing is risk-based, so your credit score, down payment, property type, and occupancy all affect the rate. Here’s a purely hypothetical illustration of why that matters: on a $400,000 loan, a pricing difference of 0.25% in rate works out to roughly $60 to $70 a month. That’s why comparing lenders is worth the effort. I’ll give you written estimates so you can see exactly where your money goes.
Local notes for Utah and Idaho
I’m based in Cache Valley and focus on Logan and Southeast Idaho, and I’m licensed in Utah, Idaho, and Texas. Buyers here often weigh a conventional loan against FHA, a USDA loan in eligible rural areas, or a state housing program. In Utah, Utah Housing Corporation offers down payment assistance paired with its own first mortgages; I cover that on my Utah Housing programs page. Idaho buyers have their own state options to compare. I’ll put the numbers next to each other so you can choose with clear eyes.
Frequently asked questions
What credit score do I need for a conventional loan in Utah?
Most conventional loans require a minimum score around 620. Scores in the 700s and above typically get better pricing and cheaper PMI.
How much do I need to put down on a conventional loan?
As little as 3% for qualified buyers, with 5% or more being common. Putting 20% down avoids PMI.
What is the 2026 conforming loan limit in Utah and Idaho?
For most counties it’s $832,750 for a single-family home. Teton County, Idaho is $1,249,125, and a few Utah counties like Summit and Wasatch are also higher. I’ll confirm the limit for your specific county.
When does PMI go away on a conventional loan?
You can request cancellation when your balance reaches 80% of the home’s original value, and it ends automatically when your balance is scheduled to reach 78%, as long as you’re current on payments.
Is a conventional loan better than FHA?
It depends on your credit and down payment. With strong credit, conventional is often cheaper and the PMI can be removed. With lower credit, FHA may come out ahead. I’ll compare both for you.
Can I use a conventional loan for a rental property or second home?
Yes. Conventional loans can be used for primary residences, second homes, and investment properties, though down payment and pricing requirements are higher for non-owner-occupied homes.
Ready to compare?
If you’re thinking about a conventional loan, let’s see what it looks like for you. Book a call with me and I’ll walk you through your options, costs, and next steps.
Caleb Adams, NMLS #2281316. First Class Home Mortgage, NMLS #1843. Terms, programs, and eligibility vary; not all applicants will qualify. This is not a commitment to lend.